The Blanc Side of Noir with Vinkara
When Ardıç Gürsel founded her Vinkara winery in 2003, she did it with one main goal: introduce the world to native Turkish grapes. It seems rather unbelievable that as little as 20 to 25 years ago, Turkish grapes were relatively unknown, even in Turkey! Dr. Şeyla Ergenekon’s Book Türk Şarapları published in 2002, addresses only 14 native grapes. Sure, people were making wine with native grapes, I mean, obviously. But any commercial reach was limited, which makes Ardıç’s goal (and all those who still share it) so very important.
Having founded her winery in Kalecik, the initial focus was on the region’s very own grape: Kalecik Karası. Vinkara has does a great deal with its signature grape including an Alberello Kalecik Karası, reserve, mono Kalecik Karası, rosé, and Turkey’s first native grape traditional method sparkling wines. Now, the winery has added a (still) blanc de noir.
Of course my favorite Kalecik Karası blanc de noir is Vinkara’s Yaşasın which, as traditional method bubbles, is hardly a fair comparison to anything! I have enjoyed other wines of this style like Vino Dessera’s blanc de noir Kalecik Karası so felt excited to try Vinkara’s.
The Terroir of Kalecik
The names of Turkey’s regions are pretty self-explanatory, geographically speaking. Central Anatolia, in that way, is seated not only in the center of Anatolia, but in the general center of the whole country. Kalecik, located about 70 km to the northeast of Ankara, is just north of center. High and dry is the best way to describe this area. I invariably leave Ankara with a headache, whether or not I’ve drunk any wine!
Although, let’s be honest, when don’t I drink wine?
Kalecik sits on a plain at an average 725 m. The Kızılırmak River forms its eastern boundary while mountains tower to the south and west. It has a continental/cold, semi-arid climate with cold and snowy winters and hot, dry summers. Thanks to its alluvial, sandy, and clay-rich soils, deep-rooting vines can reach moisture even during the driest months of the year. Significant diurnal shifts help preserve acidity and develop intense aromas, especially in the hot months, while regional winds contribute to coolness and natural pest and disease risk mitigation. 
Beyond the climatic aspect to terroir, Kalecik blends a remarkable history into its modern winemaking. Winemaking is as deeply rooted here as the vines themselves, dating back thousands of years to the Hittites and before. In fact, the capital of the ancient Hittite Empire, Hattuşa, is not too terribly far away.
Kalecik Karası
Kalecik Karası (khal-eh-djik ka-ra-sih) is now a fairly common, easy to find wine in Turkey. The grape hails from Central Anatolia (Kalecik) but has migrated widely to other parts of Central Anatolia as well as the Aegean and Thrace. Grown largely in pebbly clay loam soil, Kalecik Karası produces a light to medium bodied red wine known for its distinctive cotton candy aroma. However, when made well, the grape is capable of producing wines with elegance and complexity and an aroma profile that includes: red berries, cherry, strawberry, raspberry, cotton candy, pyrazine, game, and stable.
This grape was nearly extinct until the 1970s when it was reborn through clonal studies of dried vines. One of the heroes of this resurrection is Prof. Dr. Y. Sabit Ağaoğlu who completed his Ph.D. studies at Ankara University on the grape. The godfather of Kalecik Karası, he continues to make “natural” wine entirely by hand with it in his winery, Tomurcukbağ.
When Vinkara set up its vineyards, the team worked closely with Prof. Dr. Y. Sabit Ağaoğlu during the planting of its Kalecik Karası vines.
Vinkara Atelier “Blanc de Noir” Kalecik Karası, 2023
Vinkara’s website actually provides a lot of really great info about its wines. Would be easier if they’d put it on the label, but I’ll take a good website (just use a VPN if you’re local).
The Vinkara Atelier “Blanc de Noir” Kalecik Karası uses grapes harvested a bit earlier (September 1 vs September 4 and 11) from Parcel 10 in the winery’s Kalecik vineyards. Although I suppose the ‘parcel 10’ bit is only interesting if you know anything about the makeup of their vineyards. Which, I do not… As a white wine made with black grapes, the grapes were crushed immediately upon arrival at the winery and separated from the marc (the skins, pulp, seeds, and stems). Fermented in stainless steel tanks, the final wine reached a pH of 3.32 and residual sugar of 2.88 g/L (like I said, great info online!).
Interestingly, the label says 11% ABV while the website says 11.5%…regardless, that’s really low for Turkey.
Aromas of pomelo, lemon jam, citrus blossoms, and white fruits with just a sprinkle of pixie sticks poured out of the brilliant green-yellow straw-colored wine. The palate was soft and inviting with flavors of ripe nectarine upfront sliding into flowers on the finish. There was initially some weight up front that dissipated as the wine journeyed across the palate. But, while the weight disappeared, the flavor did not. There was a very nice lingering finish.
It’s been a really busy week. As such, I barely had time to open and taste wine let alone thing about making dinner or pairing anything. I warmed up some Indonesian leftovers and hoped for the best only to be pleasantly surprised by how well this paired with it! If you like cooking and want an unexpected pairing with the Vinkara Atelier “Blanc de Noir” Kalecik Karası, may I suggest an Indonesian coconut beef and peanut stir fry with chilis and Makrut lime leaves over coconut rice?
Thirsty for me? Don’t miss my other Vinkara wine reviews or posts about Kalecik Karası.
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