The North Wind & Sun Gods Creating Perfection at Markogianni Winery
Markogianni was not a winery with which I was familiar. A friend recommended this wine and, really, as soon as I saw the label, I was sold. Vorias (Βορέας) god of the north wind and Helios ( Ἠέλιος) is of course, the god of the sun, two things that influence their vineyards, are beautifully depicted in their label. Then I drank it. This one wine was all it took really to sell me on the whole winery. I cannot wait to get back to Athens and snap up as many different of their wines as possible!
Located to the far west of the country, near the Ionian sea and ancient Olympia, Markogianni Winery is a family-run winery launched in 1982. They soon converted to organic cultivation and in 2001 were certified by DIO. Between their own vineyards and the growers with whom they work, the Markogianni family works with a fascinating group of grapes to make their wines and tsipouro. Their white grapes include: Assyrtiko, Roditis, and Asproudes. For reds, they have: Kolliniatiko,
Mavrodaphne, Refosco, Mavroudi, Vertzami.
I really cannot wait to get my hands on some of these! But first! The north wind and the sun!
Markogianni Vorias & Helios, 2021
Made with grapes sourced from their vineyards near Mount Olympia, under P.G.I. Ilia, this is a 100% Assyrtiko. If you think you know Assyrtiko, but have only experienced Santorini Assyrtiko, then you know only one side of this facile grape. Mainland wines show entirely different sides to it, and the Makogianni Vorias & Helios, with spontaneous fermentation and eight days on the skins shows us something completely new.
The orangey-amber (almost the same color as Dr. Watson!) wine shone like a golden sunset in the glass. Honeyed quince with a healthy dose of orange peel and tangerine citrus, laurel and chamomile followed by hints of earth and nuts. Soft tannins played with a hint of oiliness on the palate, filling the mouth with flavors of rich honeyed fruit and dried meadow flowers and grasses melting into a citrussy finish.
Not the teeth-stripping acidity you might expect from island Assyrtiko, this had much more moderate and approachable acidity that added buoyancy to the palate. Moderate-low alcohol at 12.5%.
I often feel ambivalent and hesitant to drink skin contact white wines. My experience has overwhelming been that these wines can be rough and unbalanced. I am happy to find more and more elegant examples like the Markogianni Vorias & Helios. This winery is definitely on my to-visit list!
Please Help Turkey and Syria!
In light of the horrific earthquake that has decimated large areas of Turkey’s south east and northern Syria, please consider donating to one of the relief efforts if you are able:
Animal rights organization Haytap is helping animals affected by the earthquake, and displaced people who need a place to stay with their pets.
Donate to search and rescue efforts in Turkey via Ahbap, Akut and Turkish Red Crescent
Donate to civil society groups working on the ground to provide immediate relief and medium- to long-term recovery to survivors via UK-based Turkey Mozaik Foundation or US-based Turkish Philanthropy Funds.
To support rescue efforts in Syria, donate to White Helmet and SAMS.
Field Ready Türkiye (Sahaya Hazır İnovasyon Derneği) is a team of engineers working in Gaziantep, Turkey, and northwest Syria who make cheap, low-tech airbags for search and rescue from buildings which have collapsed. “If we move fast they can make more,” a good friend who previously worked with the team writes. “The workshops in Syria also have vast experience of fixing essential medical equipment, and making insulated shelters – both greatly needed right now”
Follow Jennifer Hattam on Twitter at The Turkish Life for continued updates on organizations accepting donations and needing local assistance.