Turkish Chardonnays to Try
Despite the ever growing number of native white grape varieties in Turkey, Chardonnay along with Sauvignon Blanc remain very popular. Chardonnay here went through quite a journey. For many years the wines displayed excessive oak influence that drowned out any possible fruit or freshness. However, the last few years have seen the rise of Chardonnay wines that express fruit and vibrancy as well as those with complexity from responsible oak ageing.
Over the last few months I have enjoyed a number of Chardonnays from the young and fresh all the way to sparkling.
Sevilen İsa Bey Chardonnay, 2019
One of Sevilen’s most successful lines, the İsa Bey series includes varietal white and red wines made with both native and international grapes. Usually fresh and fruity with little to no oak ageing, İsa Bey wines have a fresh and easy character that are not meant for ageing.
The Chardonnay for this wine comes from Sevilen’s vineyards in the village of Karaçaltı, Menderes (near Izmir), in Turkey’s Aegean region. Chardonnay from this area gives wine with flavors that lean tropical but still retain a freshness and lively acidity.
Alcohol: 13% abv
Color: medium lemon
Nose: Pear and tropical fruit with mango and pineapple, highlighted by fruit blossom aromas
Palate: Dry with a medium body, the wine expressed the same flavors sensed on the nose with ripe tropical fruits accented by blossoms and a medium citrusy finish. Simple, easy, and highly enjoyable.
Ma’Adra Chardonnay, 2018
Ma’Adra makes two different Chardonnay wines. One, part of the winery’s Floral series, is more basic. In 2019, Ma’Adra debuted a new Chardonnay of higher quality. While this wine also does not see oak ageing, it does undergo some malolactic conversion and sur lie ageing to add depth and texture. I have four or five favorite Turkish Chardonnay wines; this one is right up there.
Alcohol: 14% abv
Color: bright straw
Nose: Fruit forward in the nose with aromas of pear, pineapple, citrus, grapefruit, and stone, with hints of pie crust
Palate: The palate presents very dry with a medium body, high alcohol, and vibrant acidity. The flavors of pear, grapefruit, and stone were all elevated. Added to those was a luscious lemon curd flavor. There was very much a citrus tart aspect to the flavor profile.
Firuze Chardonnay, 2018
Located in the small village, Uçmakdere the Firuze winery sits steps from the Sea of Marmara. A phoenix rising from the ruins of a winery abandoned during the 1920s population exchange; Firuze is a young winery now owned by two Turkish families. Winemaker Işıl Bulutsuz, daughter of one of the owners, is as shiny new to winemaking as the winery’s new stainless steel tanks. But we’re already enjoying the fruits (haha pun) of her talent.
Alcohol: 13.7% abv
Color: medium lemon
Nose: Smoky aromas from the wine’s eight months in French and American oak rose first from the glass. Followed by fennel, baked yellow apple, and dewy honeysuckle.
Palate: On the palate the wine displayed a similar medium intensity and showcased many of the same flavors as sensed on the nose. Wet stone and smoked almonds joined the yellow apple and honeysuckle flavors along with some fresh dill on the finish. Juicy acidity combined with a little fatness on the palate added to the wine’s complexity.
A new favorite this!
Büyülübağ Chardonnay, 2018
More well-known for its red wines, Büyülübağ occasionally dips its toe into the world of white wines with Chardonnay and (new in 2019) Sauvignon Blanc.
Alcohol: 14% abv
Color: medium gold
Nose: No detectable oak on the nose but a nice array of pear, pear blossom, melon, linden, and honey
Palate: Medium-bodied and dry with firm acidity. The mouthfeel had a roundness to it but with a nice citrus edge. Like a line of acidity that sped straight down the tongue. Flavors were not especially pronounced but consistent and incorporated those found in the nose. The pear, blossom, and linden flowers were especially elevated and joined by fresh lemon.
Porta Caeli Pacem Chardonnay, 2017
Unfortunately, I could not find any wine making information connected to this wine. Based on what I know of the winery though and the flavors of the wine I am guessing that this Chardonnay was at least partially fermented and aged in French oak barrels.
Porta Caeli’s grapes comes from vineyards based on the Gallipoli Peninsula which enjoys a warm Mediterranean climate. The lush, and verdant vineyards are protected by a dense pine forest that encircles the winery and gives the entire place a fairy tale oasis feel.
Alcohol: 13% abv
Color: medium lemon
Nose: Rich citrus aromas of lemon, lemon balm, and orange joined by apple, and orchard blossom
Palate: Golden apple, apricot, fruit blossom, and lemon cured framed by fresh acidity that balanced a slight fatness. Medium-bodied with a similarly medium but solid and consistent finish.
Urlice Chardonnay, 2017
One of the wineries on the Urla Bağ Yolu south of Izmir, Urlice focuses on international grape varieties.
Alcohol: 13% abv
Color: medium plus lemon
Nose: Very rich nose full of ripe pineapple, yellow apple, pastry, and cream
Palate: Like the aromas on the nose the palate displayed great richness of intense flavors. Lemon custard, ripe peach, and apricot wrapped in flaky pastry topped with smoked kaymak. In the mouth the Urlice Chardonnay was round and creamy with a pleasing acidity.
Kavaklidere Cotes d’Avanos Blanc de Blancs, 2015
This is a limited edition wine from Kavaklidere to celebrate the winery’s 90th birthday. A traditional method sparkling wine, it’s the only 100% Chardonnay sparkling wine in Turkey. As you can tell from the vintage, this has been several years in the making. Quite literally in fact with the wine ageing 31 months sur lie prior to disgorgement.
Alcohol: 12.5% abv
Color: deep lemon with vigorous bubbles
Nose: I found this a little closed on the nose. Perhaps because I had a tulip-shaped glass rather than a normal white wine glass (which I prefer for sparkling wines). Aromas of pear, lemon curd, and brioche rather reluctantly presented themselves in the end.
Palate: A nice frothy mousse filled my mouth along with persistent flavors of pear and lemon peel with brioche and lightly toasted hazelnuts on a medium finish. Dry and medium-bodied with vivid acidity. A nice sparkling wine but, given the entrance fee and hype around it I expected a great deal more. For my money there are other, less expensive, and better sparkling wines in Turkey.