Wondering When I’ll See Greece Again
At Cinque with Baby
For most people Greece, especially Athens, means ancient gods, lots of marble columns, islands, and maybe gyros. I’ve been to the ruins. I’ve been to an island (although just the one). And I must eat two or three pork gyros (seriously, go to Royal Souvlaki) every time I visit. But for me, Greece means friends and wine.
E&M, two of my best friends, moved to Athens a few years ago. For a while I was visiting once every six to eight months. Then this last September they had a baby. Suddenly I’m tia Andrea to a baby who lives geographically much closer than my de facto nieces and nephews in the States. And with much bribery and guilt tripping suddenly I’m visiting every three months. Up until COVID that is. Now I’m worried I’ll miss Baby’s first birthday!
Thanks to my friends, my visits to Greece feel very much like home comings. With every trip, Athens becomes more and more familiar. I now have several regular watering holes (wine bars all of course). One of my favorite aspects of the Greeks is their love for children. They think nothing of us bringing Baby to the wine bars. My favorite wine bar, Cinque, a must visit for wine lovers, loved that we brought her. The proprietress said that her own son, now their sommelier, grew up in their bar and she’ll happily remember that she knew Baby “back when” after she’s grown. The same woman also spent a whole evening pouring me the last few drops from every bottle being emptied. Regardless of who ordered said wine or what it was, it ended up in a glass for me to better my chances of finding a husband.
Until I can return, I look back fondly on my previous experiences. And of course I also dream about the many wines!
Hatzidakis Winery Assyrtiko, 2016
Hatzidakis Winery began in 1996 when Haridimos Hatzidakis replanted a small (half hectare) vineyard which had been abandoned since 1956. The winery now has 10 organically farmed hectares of Assyrtiko, Aidani, and Mavrotragano at altitudes ranging from 70 up to 350 meters.
Alcohol: 13.5% abv
Color: medium lemon
Nose: Fruity with quince and citrus aromas, floral blossom, and citrus. While unoaked it has a richer bouquet than generally found in a Santorini Assyrtiko.
Palate: A crisp wine it showed a briny notes with citrus peel and honeyed detail, yellow fruit flavors, and a lively acidity.
Tsantali Agiorigtiko Abaton White, 2017
The Tsantali family has a long history of winemaking in Greece, 125 years; putting them among the oldest winemaking families. Its Agiorigtiko Abaton wines come from Greece’s Mount Athos PGI. In fact, in this instance, “Agiorigtiko” has nothing to do with the grape variety, rather something originated from Agio Oros (Mount Athos).
A 50/50 blend of Assyrtiko and Athiri, the wine underwent battonage during fermentation to add richness from the lees, and aged in stainless steel.
Alcohol: 12.5% abv
Color: medium lemon
Nose: Fresh and citrus floral on the nose with lemon, smoked grapefruit peel, daisies, dandelion greens, and oddly…popcorn
Palate: The wine had a lemonade character with notes of lime zest. Medium-bodied and round but with zesty acidity and a sadly short finish.
Domaine Zafeirakis μικρη αρκουδα, 2019
Domaine Zafeirakis has cultivated vines in the flinty clay soils of Tyrnavos (PGI) for four generations now. In the organic vineyards a combination of Greek (Assyrtiko, Malagouzia, Limniona) and international grapes grow. The Limniona I’ve had and it’s lovely. This particular wine, μικρη αρκουδα (little bear), brings together Chardonnay, Assyrtiko, and Malagouzia to make a charming and easy wine.
Alcohol: 12% abv
Color: medium lemon
Nose: Predominately floral aromas joined by golden apple, white nectarine, and lemon.
Palate: On the palate it had an appealing, round texture balanced by an edge of lemon salt acidity and flavors of juicy, ripe peaches, peach blossom, and lemon tart.
Syros Winery Fabrika, 2018
Located in Ermoupolis, the capitol of the Cyclades, Syros Winery produces wines with only Greek grapes. They grow Monemvasia, Kouritoura, Assyrtiko, and Mandilaria. Fabrika (PGI Cyclades) blends together two of the white varieties: Monemvasia and Kouritoura.
Alcohol: 13.2% abv
Color: pale gold
Nose: Delicate perfumes of warm citrus, white flowers, and pear
Palate: A light and wine accompanied by an easy acidity and flavors of pear, pomelo, and a splash of mineral.
Mercuori Estate Albariño, 2017
This wine I did not buy myself. E travels (or did) quite a bit for work and often has to pass through Istanbul. When she can she extends her trip to spend a day or two or three with me. Having found a Greek Albariño she thought I should try it. In the Western Peloponnese, on the Ichthis peninsula plateau Mercouri Estate has produced wine and olive oil for 140 years. Still in the hands of the Mercouris family, the vineyards have expanded to include a slew of native and international grapes including: Mavrodaphne, Agiorgitiko, Avgoustiatis, Assyrtiko, Robola, Refosco, Merlot, Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache, Negroamaro, Viognier, Ribolla Gialla, Malvazia Aromatica, and finally Albariño.
Alcohol: 13.5% abv
Color: medium lemon
Nose: Fruit forward and bursting with aromas of guava, stone fruit, white nectarine, and lemon
Palate: Riper-tasting than the Rias Baixas Albariños I’ve had, the palate, like the nose, had pronounced ripe fruit flavors. Dry and very fresh with juicy nectarine and lemon zest flavors highlighted by a hint of saline.
Nikos Douloufakis Brut, NV
If you like sparkling wine, then a visit to Warehouse CO2 should be on your to-do list. Warehouse itself is also very nice but more restaurant than not. Warehouse CO2 is a wine/coffee bar that specializes in sparkling wine. It was there that I discovered Nikos Douloufakis’s Brut sparkling. Made with 100% Vidiano, the wine, made in the traditional method, spent 24 months ageing sur lie.
Nikos Douloufakis Winery on Crete has made wine since the 1930s. Now in the hands of the founder’s grandson, the winery cultivates an interesting array of grapes including: Vilana, Vidiano, Muscat White (of Spina), Assyrtiko, Malvasia di Candia Aromatica, Mandilari, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Liatiko, Kotsifali, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, and Syrah. My next visit to Athens will include some time to track down one or both of Douloufakis’s amphora wines (Vidiano and Muscat).
Alcohol: 13% abv
Color: deep gold with intense, fine bubbles
Nose: Baked golden apple, pear, fruit blossom, brioche, and banket (i.e. pastry-wrapped almond paste)
Palate: Dry, medium-bodied with firm acidity and persistent bubbles. Flavors of over ripe pear, pastry, and almonds, with white flowers on the finish.