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Touring Slovenian Wine

 

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My foray so far into Slovenian wine has been limited but highly rewarding. I first visited Ljubljana with a dual purpose in mind: Christmas market and, of course, wine. Accompanied by Istanbites, we met up with friends E&M to spend a few days shivering in a proper winter environment while delighting in the Christmas atmosphere and museums, and imbibing to my heart’s content. 

We found Ljubljana to be utterly charming. A city made easy for walking, we wandered from cafe to church to castle to museum to wine bar. We didn’t make it out of the city on this trip but I hope to do so on a future trip in order to explore the wine regions themselves.

Slovenia is an old winemaking country and is actually home to the oldest vine (over 400 years old). There are some 2,550 winemakers, 21,000 hectares of vines, and three main regions: Podravje, Posavje, and Primorska (each with their own sub regions). Being so close to Italy and Austria as they are, they share a number of things with Italian viticulture including grapes like Ribolla, Refosco, Blaufränkisch, and Welschriesling (here called Laški Rizling). Fifty-three grapes varieties (36 white and 17 red) are authorized. Wine legislation falls inline with the EU quality designations with kakovstno vino ZGP and vrhunsko vino ZGP being the common terms for PDO-level quality wines.

Rodica Classic Malvazija 2016 

From one of Slovenia’s largest organic-certified wineries Rodica, located in the heart of Slovenian Istria, comes this beautiful Malvazija. Malvazija, or more correctly in this case Malvazija Istarska, is not only one of the major white grapes in Slovenia but the most important white grape in Slovenian Istria covering 30% of planted vines.

Rodica’s classic Malvazija poured a lovely golden color. Aromatic and heavily perfumed with aromas of white flowers, pear, honeycomb, and candied orange peel. Like the aromas, the flavors were pronounced with all those beautiful aromas elevated on the palate with rich ripe pear, honeycomb, and ginger and finishing with notes of nut and toast. Medium body with medium alcohol (13%) and acidity kept the flavors fresh rather than cloying.

A lovely example of Malvazija, the Queen of Istria.

Domačija Bizjak Rebula 2017 

Moving from Slovenian Istria to Goriška Brda to family winery Domačija Bizjak located in Brestje.

Rebula, or Ribolla Gialla, originated in Italy’s Friuli-Venezia Giulia. However, Slovenia has about twice the plantings of this grape than does Italy; and most of those vines are in Brda. I forgot to take a picture of the actual wine which is super sad because it was a really pretty bright, pale gold. Que será and all that. Scents of red fall apples and pears highlighted by citrus, orange peel, and flowers waft from the glass. The palate is dry, like biting into a crisp, juicy apple. Flavors are similar to the nose although orchard blossoms and fruit take the lead. Medium body and medium alcohol (13%), with easy and clean acidity and a medium long finish.

I’ve had a couple few Rebula wines, both Slovenian and Italian. While the Domačija Bizjak is not the best, it is a nice, clean example of this grape.

Štoka Vitovska Grganja 2016 

Vina Štoka grows grapes on 10 hectares in Slovenia’s Karst district, where the Alps meet the Mediterranean. The Štoka family has been making wine for 200 years and is now led by father-son team Primož and Tadej. They produce a wide range of wines from a variety of grapes, including Vitovska Grganja. Vitovska Grganja (say that three times fast), is an Italian/Slovene grape that was the result of crossing Prosecco Tondo and Malvasia Bianca Lunga. Rare (in both countries), Vina Štoka is one of the few wineries in Slovenia working with it.

Two days maceration resulted in a medium golden-hay colored wine with aromas of pear, vanilla, creme brulee, flowers, and a hint of spice. Dry on the palate with a medium body, 12% alcohol, and medium acidity. Slender with elevated flavors of pear and yellow fruits, lightly textured spices, and a savory core.

Marija in Božidar Zorjan Chardonnay 

I cannot talk about Slovenian wine and not include at least one skin contact white wine! Not orange, not amber, skin contact. The people I met in Ljubljana felt very strongly about that.  I tried and bought several but one of my favorites was this Chardonnay from Božidar Zorjan.

Božidar and his wife Marija have been farming their land in Štajerska Slovenija since 1980. In the 1990s they converted to organic then biodynamic farming and in 1995, Božidar decided that amphora were the way to go. He believes that mobile phone radiation is harmful to both wines and the enjoyment thereof so mobiles are not allowed in the winery. The back label of all his wines carries a no mobile phone warning. And the front label is just charming and clever.

A burning, sunset orange, the Zorjan Chardonnay was redolent of wheat, honey, apricots, apple, and orange rind. Dry, full-bodied with high alcohol (14.5%) and medium high acidity, it was a surprisingly refreshing wine. Citrussy acidity lifted fruit flavors of dry and fresh apricots and yellow apples as light tannins carried flavors of white pepper and savory herbs.

Marjan Simčič Pinot Noir 2015 

My wine journey returns to Goriška Brda to widely respected winery Marjan Simčič. Located in Ceglo, literally a couple meters from the Italian border, the Simčič family farms with no artificial fertilizers or insecticides in order to preserve the vineyard’s natural balance. I tried several wines from Marjan Simčič including this Cru Selection Pinot Noir.

Aged for 20 months in oak barrels (up to 30% new), the wine was bottled unfined and unfiltered. Pale garnet on the pour with all those lovely Pinot Noir aromas of red fruits, raspberry, crushed dried strawberry, black pepper, and graphite. The palate was dry and elegant with a medium body and alcohol (13.5%). Fresh acidity intensified the fruit aromas on the palate while structured tannins lent cherry and licorice flavors and earthy notes.