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Diren Karaoğlan, A Dark Horse Rising

 

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Karaoğlan is one of those Turkish grapes few people talk about and even fewer have heard about. However, I think that will soon change. This is a grape on the rise in Turkey, poised to deliver great things. 

We don’t have a lot of information about the history of Karaoğlan except that it has a long one in Eastern Anatolia. The grape grows largely in Arapgir Bölgesi in Malatya on the eastern side of the Euphrates Valley. The landscape is rugged and mountainous with an average elevation of 1200 meters.  The grape itself looks a lot like Öküzgözü from the neighboring Elazığ with its large, blue-black berries. Unlike Öküzgözü though, this aromatic variety has thick skins and results in wines with more tannins and body.

Production of Karaoğlan has started to increase. In the past it appeared in a few blends here and there and only Malatya-based winery Yenidoğuş produced it as a varietal wine. Yenidoğuş has an uneven reputation with rumors of unclean production affecting sales. I’ve had their wine in the past and I didn’t dislike it. But I agree that there was some sloppiness in production extending even to labeling. In fact, I wasn’t even sure if the winery was still in production. That question has been answered (yes they are and they released several 2019 wines). However, I feel less confident that the winery’s production methods have improved. I got to taste two of its new 2019 wines recently, both 100% Karaoğlan. Neither tasted horrifying, but they were clearly missing something. One actually tasted like wine that hadn’t finished fermenting. 

All in all, this track record has done no favors for the grape. And yet, the future now looks bright for Karaoğlan. Diren, one of Turkey’s oldest and largest wineries has now stepped up to embrace the grape. In 2020, Diren released its first vintage of Karaoğlan. Thanks to the winery’s long and consistent reputation for quality winemaking, Karaoğlan is getting another chance. 

Diren Karaoğlan, 2019

If this aged at all in oak it was less than three months. Medium opaque purple-ruby on the pour with rich and fruity aromas. Scented with mulberry, blackberry, and plum, purple flowers, a whiff of vanilla, pink pepper, cocoa, and coffee, the nose of the Diren Karaoğlan makes a lot of promises. 

Promises that it fills on the palate I am happy to say! Again very fruity, delivering juicy blueberry, currants, and mission figs. Bright acidity keeps the fruit flavors fresh from start to finish as they compliment a parade of black pepper, cocoa, and licorice flavors. Medium-bodied with soft tannins and medium alcohol (13.5% abv).

I really hope more wineries pick up on the possibilities of Karaoğlan. This is a grape capable of making fresh and easy unaoked wines like Diren’s but is also going to take well to oak. It pairs well with a variety of meats, vegetables, and flavors and has the potential to become a new foodie favorite!