Rocking Merlot Day, Turkish Style
Merlot. That grape that, for good or bad, everyone knows. I have largely avoided Merlot for years. Not because Sideways turned me off of it. More because I’d never been “on” it. The New World style made from late(r) harvested grapes resulting in high alcohol, plummy fruit, and fruitcake flavors has never been my jam.
But not even in Turkey can one avoid this grape. It might not achieve the same amount of plantings as the more popular international varieties of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon; but that is not to say it’s hard to find. Quite the opposite. It is, oddly enough perhaps, Turkish Merlots that have started to turn around my opinion of the grape!
I’ve already published reviews of a few Merlot wines that particularly struck my fancy; such as Saranta’s Chateau Murou, Claros‘ unfiltered Merlot, and MMG’s savory ŞatoMet.
Now, in honor of Merlot Day (otherwise known as November 7!), let’s explore some of my favorite examples of Turkish Merlot.
Chamlija Asticus Mons Merlot 2016 Tasting Notes
In his 30 Merlots wine from around the world article for Decanter, Andrew Jefford included one wine from Turkey, Chamlija’s Asticus Mons. With grapes harvested from Chamlija’s vineyards in the Strandja Mountains and aged 16 months in French barrique, this is most definitely a wine worth noticing.
Intense, opaque ruby in the glass, the wine began with black, nearly dried fruit aromas mingled with caramel macchiato, sweet tobacco, sweet spices, tomato leaf, chocolate, and a dusting of chili pepper. Young, assertive tannins kicked off an explosive palate of fireplace, gravel, dark caramel and dried fig culminating in a lingering lush finish.
With 14.5% abv and with a firm, full-body, this was a muscular Merlot encased in a velvet glove.
Feyzi Kutman Merlot 2014 Tasting Notes
From vineyards farther south, bordering the Sea of Marmara comes Kutman’s Merlot. This series of high-end wines from the generations-long winery honors the current custodian’s father, Feyzi Kutman. Also an award winner, taking the Silver in 2016 at the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, this is a limited edition bottling from Kutman.
Some breathing time definitely benefited this wine as the inky garnet wine first revealed largely animal aromas. Vigorous swirling revealed red fruits, mossy forest floor, eucalyptus, wintergreen, purple flowers, and tobacco. Crunchy tannins and firm acidity were bright in the mouth with flavors that reminded me a lot of walking in the woods behind my childhood home then stumbling across a bramble fruit bush. Eight months in French barrique added a ribbon of sweet spices that couldn’t compete with the wine’s peppery finish.
Low alcohol for red wine here, at only 12.8% abv, the Feyzi Kutman Merlot punches in a weight class well above its medium body.
Likya Merlot 2015 Tasting Notes
For Likya’s Merlot we leave the shores of the Marmara for a different seaside, the Mediterranean. While Likya’s vineyards in Elmalı are not exactly seaside, their high altitudes help the vines take advantage of marine breezes and create a cooler climate.
Jewel-bright ruby in color, Likya’s Merlot really evolved in the glass. The nose began with blue plums and freshly picked black mulberry then deepened into earthy, roasted tomato, bay leaf, oregano, and cinnamon. Silky tannins burst with flavors of mashed mulberry, followed by tomato and forest and a mocha coffee finish. Racy and elegant with an undetectably high alcohol (14.5% abv).
Gordias Merlot 2016 Tasting Notes
We go north for the next Merlot to Turkey’s capitol Ankara. Here in the village, Polatlı, Canan Gerimli is a powerhouse running her winery as a one woman show. Her wines tend to have a wild and earthy character and the Merlot did not stray from that.
Vibrant and juicy sugar plum, blackberry, and boysenberry marched lockstep with earth and leather in the nose. Big, juicy tannins and mouthwatering acidity made the flavors sing on the palate where wild, peppery greens joined the fruit, earth, and leather.
At a moderate 13.5% abv the Gordias Merlot weighed in with a sold medium body and challenging character.
Arda Reserve Merlot 2012 Tasting Notes
Finally, we end where we began, in Turkey’s Thrace with 2016 Mundus Vini Silver winner, Arda Reserve Merlot. Arda’s wines, if you have the patience to put them down, are a fantastic value in Turkey. The wines age even better than Saç family realized they could. I got lucky with this 2012 having purchased it back in 2016 during a visit to the winery, after which it got a little lost in my cellar.
Rich and plummy in the nose with lush, ripe black fruits sprinkled with dried herbs and freshly cracked black pepper. Firm acidity balanced round, velvet tannins and a reasonable 13.6% abv on the palate. Those beautiful peppery fruits from the nose came through on the palate, accompanied by a long, chocolaty finish.
Happy Merlot Day to everyone! If you haven’t chosen a wine yet with which to celebrate, maybe you’d like to find a Merlot from Turkey!
*I would have also included Chateau Nuzun’s Merlot with this list. However, having now enjoyed three of her vintages I’m separating them out for a vertical tasting post. Look for that in the nearish future!