Creating a New Narince in Thrace
The wine world recognizes some eighteen “noble” grapes. The most common among them being: Riesling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. What makes them noble? In a nutshell, availability does. These 18 varieties have wide-spread appeal and can be found in most major wine-producing areas in the world. Not for nothing, but I like the way VinePair puts it: “… these grapes are the gateway drugs.”
The Noble Grapes of Turkey
None of Turkey’s native grapes is included in the list of noble (or international) grapes. Not surprising as by and large the grapes are cultivated only here in Turkey. However if Turkey had its own list of noble grapes, it would certainly include white grapes Emir and Narince, and black grapes Boğazkere, Kalecik Karası, and Öküzgözü.
Narince is Turkey’s most ubiquitous white vitis vinifera grape. It makes its home in the alluvial soils of Mid-Southern Anatolia, specifically in Tokat, located in the Black Sea region of northern Turkey. Narince, which means “delicately” in Turkish, has an aroma profile including: orange, grapefruit, lime, white pineapple, quince, floral, plumeria, acacia, fruit blossom, basil, ripe green apple, and walnut.
It is a flexible grape that can be made into a variety of styles from aromatic and steely when aged in stainless steel to complex and creamy with flavors of vanilla, caramel, and toasted nuts when aged in oak. Wineries across Turkey experiment with different winemaking techniques. Rather than planting the grapes themselves,many of them source grapes from third party growers in Tokat; believing that Narince isn’t Narince if it’s not grown in its home region. However, there are a few exceptions, like Arda Vineyards.
Arda Vineyards
Arda Vinyards is a small, family winery located near the historic town of Edirne in Turkey’s Thrace. A chateau-style winery, vineyards surround the facilities, running down the gentle hill topped by the winery. These vineyards now include Narince grapes. In previous years, Arda bought in grapes, including Narince. Arda produces three series of wine: Reserve, Kuşlu, and Dokuz Sekiz. In 2013, Arda released a Narince under its Kuşlu label. This wine, beautiful though it was! was made with bought in grapes.
Several years ago they planted their own Narince at Arda. While they’re not the only ones cultivating Narince in Turkey’s Thrace (notably Chamlija, located in Kırklareli), they are they only ones doing so in Edirne. Cultivating their own grapes has many advantages, including quality control. So much so that Arda Narince is now part of the wineries top, reserve line.
More than just creating a nicer wine though, Arda’s cultivation of Narince in Edirne expands the grape’s terroir profile. Edirne is generally hotter and wetter than Tokat and has a humid, subtropical climate. While Tokat has a hot-summer Mediterranean climate, it also benefits from considerable maritime and continental influences.
While it has not been ‘just’ a Tokat grape for some time now, putting Narince in Edirne means that the grape is growing from one end of the country to the other and taking on the expression of varied micro climates and soils.
Arda Vineyards Reserve Narince
In addition to giving Narince a new terroir expression, Arda also employs a different winemaking method for its Reserve Narince. For this vintage, stainless steel aged wine was blended, two parts to one, with wine that aged for eight months in lightly toasted French oak. The result is stunning.
In the glass the wine resembles a Riesling with its distinctive, star-bright, silvery straw color. The nose displays some of the characteristic aromas of Narince including citrus, quince, and white flowers with the added kick of…blue cheese? Yes. I thought I was going a little crazy but I wasn’t the only one picking up that particular aroma.
A little heavier than light bodied but not quite medium, Arda’s Reserve Narince surprised me with its citrussy and prickly acid. One of those wines I like to call ‘dangerously delicious’ with flavors of, again blue cheese, orange peel, and flowers it’s a fantastic and far too easy to drink wine. Brilliant on its own it also holds up against oily foods and pairs well with Turkey’s traditional stuffed grape leaves and yogurt.
This is easily one of, if not my number one favorite Narinces.