Tbilvino Special Reserve Kisi
Tbilvino, established in 1962, has grown into a leading producer of Georgian wines with a 6.5 million bottle portfolio. The company operates two wineries; one in Tbilisi and another in Kakheti. I’d seen their wines around Tbilisi, in fact my regular hotel keeps a display of them in the lobby. However, I’d never tried them until the 2017 New Wine Festival I attended in Tbilisi. I came home from that trip with two of their wines, the Sachino medium dry white and the Special Reserve Kisi.
Kisi, from Eastern Georgia, is one of the leading white grape varieties after Rkatsiteli and Mtsvane. From the well-known Kakheti region, plantings of Kisi have expanded in recent years but it’s still grown mainly in Telavi, Kvareli, and Akhmeta. While it might be the third most common, I still find it more difficult than not to find wines made with it. Rkatsiteli and Mtsvane are really just that much more popular.
Each year Tbilvino selects the best grape clusters from its vineyards, based on their balance, intensity of aroma and ability to maintain good acidity. These bunches are used to create their limited release special reserve wines.
Tbilvino Special Reserve Kisi 2015 Tasting Notes
Tbilvino does make a qvevri-aged Kisi wine. But this not that. For the Tbilvino Special Reserve Kisi the wine was made in a more European style, fermented and aged in stainless steel.
Medium pale gold on the pour, yeasty and floral aromas swirled in the glass. They combined with acacia blossoms, spice, grapefruit, and a hint of mineral for a very pretty bouquet. Sipping revealed tart and zesty citrus fruit, grapefruit zest, and a spiced apple flavor, like red apples and nutmeg. Dry, medium body with playful acidity and medium alcohol (13% abv).
A lovely example of this grape from one of Georgia’s larger producers.