Blog

Uncovering New Flavors with Akberg

 

---

These wines were provided as samples – all opinions are my own.

The lovely folks at Akberg recently reached out to me and sent me some samples. I love samples! Thank you Akberg! This presented me with a fantastic chance to try some of their new vintages and new wines. Not all of which are included here, a couple need their own posts! But the four I’m featuring here uncover flavors – and a new grape! – from the winery. 

But first! A little about the winery. 

Akberg

Akberg winery already had a long history in Turkey before the 2020 vintage that put it on the map. For years, Akberg has produced aromatized fruit wine under multiple labels, the most well-known being Vincent Şirince. Should you visit Turkey and tour Ephesus, the famous Greco-Roman ruins south of Izmir, your tour inevitably includes a trip to Şirince, infamous for its production of aromatized fruit wine, of which Akberg is a prolific producer. In 2020, under the direction of Güney Köse, chairman and chief wine sipper, Akberg shifted direction into quality wines.

Its first quality label, Büyükbağ, which means “large vineyard”, reflects the company’s vision of working with independent growers across the country. The winery feels strongly about preserving a grape’s native terroir, rather than trying to force them to grow in alien lands. As such, Akberg sources grapes from all over the country. Narince from its home in Tokat, Papazkarası from Thrace, Bornova Misketi from Izmir, Çalkarası from Çal, and so on. Part of Akberg’s new journey also includes the preservation and revitalization of Anatolia’s ancient grapes. As such, it was the first winery to give us wines from previously unknown grapes like Osmanca, Erciş Karası, and Kecimen.

With Köse at the helm, Akberg is also pushing the boundaries of Turkish wine with new styles and technology like the country’s first enrobed wines (more on that later!) and the first AI-generated label (for the Emir-i Vaki Pét-Nat).

Akberg Büyükbağ Kecimen, 2023

Kecimen is a new grape Akberg has introduced to the market. At the moment, the winery is the only one working with it (on a commercial scale anyway). It hails from Central Anatolia’s Konya, which has proven to be a somewhat surprising cornucopia of new/emerging grape varieties! These vineyards sit at an impressive 1632 meters in the quartz-clayey soils in the village of Aşağıeşenler. 

The wine poured a medium-pale ruby, releasing aromas of sour cherry, olive, and hints of earth and spice. Bright acidity and grippy tannins greet the palate with a very spice-driven profile. This is a wine that needs time in the glass. As it evolves, it releases flavors of mace, ras al hanut, and “exotic” spices with a splash of juicy black fruit flavors. Medium-bodied with 13.7% ABV, this is a great wine to pair with things like stuffed, roasted vegetables, pilaf, duck, and lentil-based dishes. 

Akberg Büyükbağ Öküzgözü, 2024

Made with grapes sourced from vineyards at 1146 meters above sea level in Turkey’s Eastern Anatolia district, Elazığ, Akberg’s Büyükbağ Öküzgözü immediately looks like Öküzgözü. It pours a bright, dense purple-ruby, looking much like mulberry juice!

The resemblance doesn’t end there. Fresh, fruity notes of mulberry, plum, and pomegranate burst from the glass. Medium-bodied with surprisingly high alcohol (14.7%), juicy acidity, and soft tannins. Nothing overly complicated here, but a great wine for people who like fruit-forward, easy to drink wines. I find that Öküzgözü is such a relaxed grape, it pairs well with a wide variety of food. When you don’t know what to drink with your meal, it rarely offends. 

Akberg Büyükbağ Papazkarası, 2021

I’ve posted previously about the Akberg Büyükbağ Papazkarası, but when Akberg sent me the new Lethe Papazkarası, I dug out this other bottle I had so I could do a side-by-side tasting. Not exactly a fair comparison since they’re different vintages…but I work with what I have. 

The wine poured a pale garnet with warm aromas of fruit and spice. Sipping revealed a dry and savory wine. Cherries with lashings of black pepper, notes of earth, and a sprinkle of allspice that carried through to the finish. Persistent tannins, bright acidity, and only 12.5% ABV. I love the savory-spicy character Papazkarası often displays.

Akberg Lethe Papazkarası, 2024

Akberg sourced the grapes for its 2024 Lethe Papazkarası from the sandy, clayey-limestone soils of Edirne. The wine spent 11 months in French and American oak barrels before bottling. While only three years younger than the previous wine, it appeared far more ruby than brick in the glass. Again, fruit and spice with black cherries and black raspberries, all that black pepper, a hint of purple flowers, and a savory kiss of mace. 

One of the reasons why I love Papazkarası is its lower alcohol level. However, this one goes against the norm with 15% ABV! I think only Gürbüz’s has been that high. I could feel the alcohol on the palate. This was hefty, tannic, and mouth-filling but with all those great juicy fruit and spice notes. I personally would like a lower alcohol level, but overall, quite enjoyed this. 

Stay tuned for upcoming posts about Akberg’s Lethe Osmanca and the enrobed Boğazkere – Emir!

In the meantime, if you’re curious about Akberg, Kecimen, and native Turkish grapes, you can also grab downloads of my Turkish grape infographics or – better yet! – a copy of the second edition of The Essential Guide to Turkish Wine!