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A Sweet Surprise During a Visit to Kuzubağ

 

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My adventures with Turkish wine importer, Fine Turkish Wine, continue! Well at least the writing of them does, the adventures themselves ended in November. And it’s taking ever so much longer to write about these visits than it took to make them! After two days in Trakya (aka Thrace), visiting first Arcadia, then Arda and Gürbüz Winery we headed for the Aegean. 

First stop, Kuzubağ!

Kuzubağ 

Kuzubağ Şaraphane is one of the new generation wineries working to raise the profile of the Çal region. More than just a member of the Çal Bağ Yolu, Kuzubağ is (in my considerable opinion), the best of them. A family-run affair, the Kuzu family not only produces high-quality wines at reasonable prices-a rarity these days in Turkey-but also promotes native Turkish grapes, female winemakers, and pride in their home region.

Their philosophy, high quality wines at sensible prices which seems simple, but is rarely executed as well as this in Turkey. In 2022, Kuzubağ released its first commercial vintage; seldom does a winery turn out so many fantastic wines from its freshman vintage. Every vintage and new wine since have kept up that same, remarkable quality. 

Of everyone in the Kuzu family, it’s been one of the family’s daughters, Aslı, who has emerged as the face of the winery, taking on the major management role. The female influence on the winery does not stop with her. Semril Zorlu, one of Turkey’s top, young female winemakers heads production at the winery, while the talented Merve Gürcanoğlu is the product manager and controls the day-in-day-out winemaking. Kuzubağ’s distinctive labels, echoing images found on coins uncovered in the region’s archaeological sites, inspired label designer Elif Tanman.

The Vineyards

Why Çal? While grapes have long (long, long, long) grown here and wineries have produced here, it’s never had the greatest reputation. Known more for bulk and table wine made with the underrated local grape, Çal Karası. That started to turn around in 2010 when pioneering winery Paşaeli released the first quality Çal Karası wine. But even before then, the Kuzu family wanted to to get into the game.

They’ve long owned vineyards, specifically of Çal Karası. In the past, busy with other careers, the Kuzus sold their grapes to other wineries. In 2007, with a view to establishing their own winery, they began planting new vineyards and creating their winery. They now have 50 hectares (123.50 acres) planted to Bornova Misketi, Çal Karası, Kalecik Karası, and Öküzgözü as well as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz, and a complement of Bordeaux grapes, all of which they farm organically.

Their winery and vineyards sit near the village Hançalar in Çal. Located to the northeast of Denizli, the area lies at an altitude of 850 meters (2,790 ft) and enjoys a Mediterranean climate. Soil makeup is largely clay and loam with significant iron deposits, particularly around Hançalar. 

This visit with Rob from Fine Turkish Wine was only my second visit to the winery and I was excited to be there again. I’ve been a fan of their since that freshman vintage. Aslı was ready for us when we arrived with a slew of wines, including some new bottles! to taste. 

Sultaniye, 2025

This is a new product from Kuzubağ and I am so excited about it! If Heraki’s Akuarela Sultaniye or Delta V haven’t yet convinced people that Sultaniye is capable of more than raisins, Kuzubağ’s new wine adds another point in the grape’s favor. 

Aslı pulled a tank sample for us so it was still a little cloudy and not quite ready for bottling, which likely means it will change a bit before we get it commercially. But we could already tell that this wine was a star in the making. Absolutely gorgeous and expressive nose with tropical and citrus fruit aromas leaping from the glass. Great acidity on the palate, a little textured, dry.

I plan to buy several bottles when it’s released and suggest everyone get in line!

Fumé Blanc, 2024

I’ve gushed before about how much I like the Kuzubağ Fumé Blanc. Even for those who (like me) don’t care for oak-aged white wines, I feel confident you’d make an exception for this one. The final wine is only partially aged in barrels (meaning that it’s a blend of stainless steel tank and oak aged). The multi-use French barrels came through less in overt vanilla or buttery tones but in more of a way that led to a rounder palate and caramelized fruits.

Grilled pineapple and tropical fruits and Meyer lemon with a lemon meringue pie finish and lively, mouthwatering acidity.

Rosé, 2024

The rosé has been a favorite since the winery debuted. It’s also one that Fine Turkish Wine has in stock if any of you are near Houston and want to get a bottle or three!

This is the kind of rosé I like to give to people who don’t like rosé. It’s a 50/50 blend of the regional Çal Karası and Kalecik Karası and has a vivacity that strikes you at the first sniff and stays with you through the last sip. Fruity but herbal featuring red fruits like rhubarb, cranberry, and kızılcık (a cranberry-like fruit called ‘cornelian cherry’ in English), complimented by wild thyme, and a lemon salt-like tang. Textured, dry, and vivid acidity. 

Çal Karası, 2024

Çal Karası, the reason behind the family opening their winery. Of all the red wines Kuzubağ offers, this one (in my opinion) shines the brightest. The wine blends 40% stainless steel tank-aged with 60% aged for five months in mixed use French oak barrels. The wine, a clear bright ruby, bursts with with wild strawberry, sour cherry, and rhubarb, thyme, pepper, and earth. A silky palate with bright acidity and a lingering finish.

Kuzubağ’s Çal Karası tends to go out of stock quickly so it’s very much a “get it when you can” wine. 

Haziran, 2022

I’ve not had much of the Kuzubağ Haziran before. It’s a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Öküzgözü, and Shiraz (with the Cab and Merlot making up the smaller proportion of the blend). Partially (30%) aged for seven months in French barrels. Aslı described this wine as “Approachable but has its own thing going on”. Haziran is meant to be the winery’s more easy drinking, quaffable red.

Fruity and spicy. Lots of red fruits with berries, cherries, and red plum with pepper and a dash of brown spices. Indeed, easy and pleasant to drink. A red that doesn’t necessarily need food next to it to be enjoyable. Also easy on the wallet!

Shiraz – Öküzgözü, 2022

This blend combines 58% Shiraz with Öküzgözü. For this vintage, the Shiraz came from contracted vineyards in Güney, but Kuzubağ has planted it in their own vineyards. Again partially (70%) aged in French oak barrels for an average 12 months.

Deep purple in the glass and perfumed with ripe black fruits and spice. On the palate, plums take center stage surrounded by licorice and spice. Juicy and lively. 

Hemhâl, 2022

The Hemhâl is Kuzubağ’s Bordeaux blend. Every winery needs one. Apparently. A combination of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from vines the Kuzu family planted in 2007, the blend ages an average of 12 months in multi-use French barrels followed by an additional year in the bottle.

Savory fruit, peppery, and perfumed spices! The palate shows structure and tannins with notes of black currant, black pepper, cinnamon, dried oregano, and ras al hanout. For certain something you could cellar for some years should you so desire. 

Sweet Çal Karası, 2022

After the surprise Sultaniye, this one was our second surprise at Kuzubağ! A sweet Çal Karası?! To make this, they dried grapes under the sun for six or seven days allowing them to concentrate sugars and flavors. The raisinated grapes macerated for five-six hours and, after fermentation, the wine aged for 15 months in old oak. Not a terribly high alcohol level for a sweet wine at “just” 13.5% ABV, but the 93 g/L of residual sugar sure will get one’s attention!

The palest ruby in the glass just bursting with roasted strawberries, candied fruits, berries, cinnamon, and balsamic. Round with nice viscosity, amazing acidity, long finish…if you’re uncertain about red sweet wines, this will decide you firmly in their favor!

The Sultaniye not yet being available, this is the only one I went home with, but I do look forward to getting my hands on more of Kuzubağ’s wines soon.

Visiting Kuzubağ 

Kuzubağ hosts guests in one of the most stunning wineries in the country. Rather than construct a building that overwhelms the surrounding vineyards, Kuzubağ worked with an architect to create a building, with local materials, that merges into the landscape. The stunning effect, combined with the subterranean, circular winemaking level that allows visitors a peek into the process through glass walls makes it even more surprising that the winery offers some of the most reasonably priced quality wines in the country.

Getting There

If you’re not based in Denizli, itself about an hour’s drive away, you are looking at rather a trip to visit Kuzubağ.  The winery is a three-hour drive from Izmir, the nearest (at least nearest regularly serviced) airport. Your best option is to take an early morning flight from Istanbul and rent a car at the Izmir airport. 

Staying

Annoyingly, there are no hotels in Çal. The nearest city with available hotels is Denizli. However, since you’re already in the area… 

Things to Do Around

Combine a visit to the winery with the only slightly farther away Pamukkale! One of Turkey’s most famous tourist destinations, Hierapolis and Pamukkale are amazing, especially if you get there early in the morning before the hoards descend. You can also take some extra time to visit nearby Laodicea and/or Aphrodisias.

Pamukkale  is full of hotels at every budget, so you’re quite spoiled for choice. Just be warned that the smaller hotels that claim to have parking, really only mean there may be street parking near the hotel.

Don’t forget to check out my previous reviews of Kuzubağ’s wines. And, if you want to explore Turkish wine more deeply, you can always get a copy of the second edition of my book: The Essential Guide to Turkish Wine!