The Re-Emergence of Semillon & Arda Rezerv Semillon
After recently talking about Gamay as an emerging popular grape, let’s take a look at Semillon, specifically, the Arda Rezerv Semillon. Like Gamay, Semillon isn’t new, but seems as if many have newly rediscovered it. Last year, Arda joined Melen, Saranta, Suvla, and Sevilen, as a Semillon producer. I haven’t written about it before now…largely because I was hoping to keep it a secret and drink it all myself! But it really deserves some attention.
Semillon in Turkey
Like many countries, Turkey got hit hard by phylloxera. During its recovery period, it experienced a similar path to viticulture recovery as northern Italy where hardier and easier to grow French grapes were imported and planted. One of the first grapes brought to Turkey was Semillon. Nihat A. Kutman (founding father of Doluca and grandfather to the Kutman winery founder) brought Semillon to Turkey (along with Cinsault, Gamay, and Riesling) in the mid 1930s. He planted cuttings of these grapes in vineyards around Mürefte along the Sea of Marmara.
While Riesling appears in very few wineries here, the other three have clung on and all are currently having something of a rebirth of popularity.
Arda Rezerv Semillon, 2020
Arda, based in northern Thrace in Edirne (close to the Turkey-Bulgaria-Greece corner) does not grow its Semillon on site. The winery brings it in from Gazıköy, in the Marmara growing region. The grapes get whole bunch fermented in French oak. The wine then ages a further five months in French oak. Clearly not new or heavily toasted oak, thank goodness. The oak is very well integrated, giving the wine some roundness and depth without overwhelming.
Cool lemon in the glass, the wine immediately gives notes of citrus right off the top. Aromas of pomelo, ripe white fruits, daisies, and almonds quickly follow. Round and weighty, with 13% abv, and buoyed by a citrussy acidity, the palate exhibits light touches of vanilla and pastry, stone fruit, and white peach, all of which linger very pleasantly. Elegant, and a wine worthy of ageing.
The Arda Rezerv Semillon made its way into my glass a lot since I first had it last spring. I’ve paired it successfully with a number of favorite summer salads and slaws, pork burgers, bacon jam, and various cheeses. It was also lovey with balsamic strawberries over honey tarragon ricotta on parmesan biscuits. Thanks to Robin from Crushed Grape Chronicles for the recipe!