At Amadeus MMX, Making Island White Wines
The Aegean island, Bozcaada – formerly Tenedos-has a long history of winemaking. So long in fact, it rated mention in The Iliad. Today this storied island, now in Turkish hands, produces far less wine than it did in history. Some of the wineries, like relatives Talay and Çamlıbağ, also have long histories. Not ancient Greece long, but beginning of the Turkish Republic long. Some, like Corvus and Amadeus MMX are new comers.
Amadeus MMX, as its name might indicate, is owned by an Austrian family; one that came to Turkey in the 60s and stayed. The current head of the winery, Oliver Gareis, was born here. While the family made wine at home on the mainland in Oliver’s youth, it wasn’t until they relocated to the island that they turned their hobby into a commercial venture. When choosing which grapes to plant on a hot island, Vasilaki, native to Bozcaada, was an easy choice. Grillo and Zlahtina came as a result of trips the elder Gareises took Italy and Croatia. If Grillo grew well in hot Sicily and Zlahtina similarly on the Croatian island Krk, why not on Bozcaada?
Whether covered with tourists during high season or down to the 5-600 permanent residents in the off season, Bozcaada maintains the relaxed environment of island life. Fish, sea food, and sea plants play a big part in the diet. Like the island atmosphere, they’re fresh, light, and go very well with the wines.
Amadeus Vasilaki 2016 & 2017 Tasting Notes
With a color as pretty as the nose, the 2016 Vasilaki began with lots of pineapple and tropical fruit with herbal undertones. Fresh and clean on the palate with a slightly fatty feel and flavors of wet stone, white pineapple, and a grapefruit pity finish. A short finish but overall balanced and easy to drink at only 12.4% abv.
2017 must have been a cooler year on windy Bozcaada. Not that the previous vintage had a very high alcohol level but this one came in at only 11.7%. A pale, almost silvery color combined with the low abv promised a light-bodied, easy wine. Pear, guava, citrus zest, and white flower aromas charmed the nose while a light fruity and floral flavors made for a clean and pretty palate.
Amadeus Grillo 2015 & 2017 Tasting Notes
The Amadeus 2015 Grillo I drank last year, so after about three years in the bottle. My experience with Grillo is extremely limited and I didn’t know if this was a wine you’d want to age at all or not. I still can’t speak generally about it, but I can say that Amadeus’ Grillo ages beautifully. The 2015 was a beautiful gold color with aromas as intense as the color. Yellow fruits, golden apple, bergamont preserves, and pineapple. Good acidic structure in the mouth carried fruity and nutty flavors. Grilled pineapple and apples, lightly toasted hazelnuts, and ginger. A surprising 14.4% abv but with a fine balance.
Like the Vasilaki above, the 2017 had much lower alcohol at only 13.2% than previous vintages. Both youth and the (possibly) cooler vintage also affected the color. Whereas the 2015 was a deep gold, the 2017 was a green-tinged straw. Peach juice, green apple, citrus, rich plumeria, and flint on the nose. A very pretty palate that was light and fruity. Sparkling minerality set off by fruit and flowers.
Amadeus Zlahtina 2017 Tasting Notes
Like Grillo, my experience with Zlahtina is limited. Well more than limited in this case. More like non existent. I have no idea what Zlahtina should taste like. But I can tell what it tastes like in Turkey! Very pale, almost colorless lemon. A little shy on the nose with citrus, lemon peel, and white pepper. The palate is light and round with 12.2% abv, and non aggressive acidity. Very dry and very pretty with light touches of dried apricots and citrus. Not an especially expressive wine at the end of the day but enjoyable and easy.