Bursting for Ma’Adra Öküzgözü
For several years Ma’Adra’s Öküzgözü rosé has been one of my go-to rosés. But I’ve always wondered why they don’t make a red. I don’t have to wonder anymore because now they do! At November’s Sommeliers Selection event in Istanbul, Ma’Adra debuted its new carbonic maceration Öküzgözü.
We don’t talk about carbonic maceration a lot in Turkey. While Ma’Adra may not be the first winery here to use the technique, it is the first to proudly put it on the label. But, what is it?
Carbonic Maceration, the Internal Combustion of Winemaking
Carbonic maceration is probably how early wine got made…when people weren’t even trying to make wine. The technique, most famously used by makers of Beaujolais Nouveau, is most often applied to light to medium bodied red wines. It can completely change a wine’s style and flavor profile; creating bright, fruity aromas that leap out of the glass.
Onto the sciency bit…
After picking, winemakers will usually destem grapes, crush them a bit to release some juice, and start fermentation (either with ambient yeast or a cultured strain). Carbonic maceration eschews all that. Here, fermentation occurs INSIDE the grape. Yup. Cool. Grape bunches go into a tank from which oxygen is removed and carbon dioxide added. Fermentation begins inside the berry using the CO2 in the tank to produce not only alcohol but a variety of compounds that affect the wine’s final flavor. At the same time, color from the skin leeches inwards coloring the pulp and juice. Once alcohol gets to 2%, the berries burst, release their juice, and fermentation continues.
This creates lightly colored wines with low levels of acidity and tannins, but highly fruity aromas, generally meant to be drunk young.
Ma’Adra Carbonic Maceration Öküzgözü, 2020
I think there will be no problems drinking the Ma’Adra Öküzgözü young. There would be a bigger problem trying to keep it around longer because it’s just straight up delicious.
Does anyone remember those instant oatmeal packs that came with “cinnamon brown sugar swirl”? No? Just me? The nose here shouted strawberry jam with brown sugar swirl. Cinnamon and clove add depth and eucalyptus comes in for a fresh, botanic lift. Öküzgözü, already not an overly tannic grape, seems ready made for carbonic maceration. Flavors of crunchy red fruits and caramelized banana compliment a silky mouthfeel that slides into a medium finish. Soft acidity and medium alcohol (13.5%) add to the almost luscious feeling.
Your new favorite Öküzgözü … I have found it!