Blog

Delving into the Red Wines of Arda

 

---

I recently had the chance to re-visit Arda Bağları in Thrace with US importer, Fine Turkish Wine. If only I had a car, I would certainly be at this winery more often. Arda has long been a favorite winery of mine. Not only because the wine is great (and price conscious!) but because the family behind it is lovely.

Arda Bağları & Şarapçılık

Located near the historic town of Edirne, a mere stone’s throw from the Turkey-Greece-Bulgaria border, lies Arda Bağları. Founded in 2007 by Ilyas Saç, this winery is a family affair tended to by Saç’s children. Wine lovers all, his daughter Şeniz oversees the wine production while his son Yavuz, a wine scholar, also manages the winery. They cultivate a lot of their own grapes onsite, both native grapes like Narince, as well as international varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Merlot. Arda also works with independent growers to source Papazkarası, Semillon, and Gamay.

Arda is also one of a small number of Turkish wineries willing to experiment with wines and test them on the market. It’s always fun to see what Şeniz and Yavuz are playing with. Co-fermentations, late harvest dry reds, blending native with international grapes, and extended macerations are just some of the more interesting wines the winery might release. 

When they first hit the market, Arda was a stand-alone winery. Some years back, they added a restaurant (killer steak!), then a few years ago, guest bungalows. Unfortunately, they’ve had to remove the guest bungalows. Turkey has cracked down on the glut of unregistered AirBnB-type accommodations – which is great because they contributed hugely to the housing crisis in big cities. However, the government has also used this as an excuse to force the winery to close down the adorable guest bungalows. With those gone, the winery has also shut down the restaurant, which will now only be open late spring through autumn.

While a little of their shine has been dimmed, nothing is stopping Arda from producing some fantastic wines!

Arda Gala, 2022

Each of the wines in the Arda Gala series features Papazkarası. This is one of the grapes the winery doesn’t grow. They work with small growers, largely with brothers Ismail and (I think) Mustafa Altıparmak.  Sitting at 380 ft, the 40+ year-old bush vines grow in sandy and loamy soils and are farmed with Turkish Government-approved Good Agricultural Practices. The series is called Gala after the not-too-far-away lake Gala. Each label has a different bird, a nod to the bird sanctuary at the lake. 

The Arda Gala red sees no oak ageing, but that might surprise you to know when you get a whiff of the lusciously rich aromas! Red fruits with hints of brown spices, dried rose petals, and the grape’s signature earthy black pepper notes. A medium-bodied wine with a silky palate, good acidity, and moderate alcohol.

Arda Gala – Oak Aged

Surprise! There’s also an oak-aged version. From a different plot, a low-yield single vineyard. Significantly higher alcohol than the other version hitting a full 14%. 

Smoky and oaky but in the best way. Still gave the signature red fruit and pepper notes, but everything was overlaid with a smoky, almost mangal-like (barbeque) tone. The longer it lived in the glass, the more it settled into itself, revealing richer fruit and dried rose petals. Also more tannic than the pervious iteration, this was full-bodied Papazkarası at its best

Arda Kuşlu Merlot, 2022

Not a grape I write about very frequently. But, if like you me, you don’t love Merlot, give the Arda Kuşlu Merlot a try. Don’t worry, it’s not going to convert you or anything, but it is a nice bottle of wine.

Black fruits wrapped in vanilla caramel with spicy tones of pepper and cardamom. Medium-bodied and balanced but with surprisingly high alcohol at 14% (it feels so much lighter), this is a ‘sneaks up on you wine’.

Arda Kuşlu Cabernet Franc, 2022

A beautifully rip Cabernet Franc with juicy black fruits like cherries and plums. Characteristic green bell and jalapeño notes add a nice herbaceousness along with a sprinkle of Turkish isot biber and just a kiss of oak. Silky tannins, pleasing acidity, and lovely balance. 

Arda Rezerv Cabernet Sauvignon – Merlot, 2020

We move onto Arda’s reserve reds with the Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot blend. Twelve to 18 months oak before blending, this Bordeaux-style blend is full-bodied with ripe tannins and acidity framing floral top notes and a core of black cherry, baking spices, and vanilla before finishing on a bright and pleasingly bitter note of grapefruit skin.

Arda Rezerv Merlot, 2021

Treated to 18 months barrel ageing, the Rezerv Merlot is like the Kuşlu, but on steroids. Black fruits bordering dried plum, and sweet brown spices, chocolate, and vanilla, all underpinned by smoky fireplace aromas. Big alcohol at 15% ABV! but nicely balanced with fruit, plush tannins, and good acidity.

Arda Rezerv Shiraz, 2020

Big, tannic, full-bodied, and very much Shiraz, this wine starts with plum and cherry decorated with soft green herbs and fresh black pepper. Sweet cedar, spices, anise, and leather add depth. 

Fantastic now but this has at least another 10 years of life during which it will continue to develop.

Look out soon for more reviews of what Yavuz shared with us – including the experimental wines! But, in the meantime, check out all my previous reviews of Arda’s wines. And, if you want to explore Turkish wine more deeply, you can always get a copy of the second edition of my book: The Essential Guide to Turkish Wine!