Fekete Pince Somlói Juhfark
I’ve had a couple few Juhfark wines in the past. But I think I’d never actually tasted Juhfark until this bottle of Fekete Pince Somlói Juhfark.
In the early 1970’s, Béla Fekete founded Fekete Pince on the southern slopes of Somló Mountain in western Hungary. Through his careful viticulture and winemaking Fekete built something of a legendary reputation in the area. During his winemaking career he earned the moniker of ‘Grand Old Man of Somló’. Fekete retired in 2014 and sold his winery to Ákos Dölle, György Emmert, and Gábor Riesz who carry on the traditions he began.
The smallest wine region in Hungary, the volcanic Somló Mountain stands out as a striking geological feature in an otherwise flat area. Barely 800 hectare in size, the rich basalt-laden soils lend grapes grown here robust acidity, keen minerality, and a uniquely sophisticated elegance. Wines made here come mostly from small wineries like Fekete Pince. While a variety of grapes are allowed and used in the region, much of the prestige goes to Juhfark. Its name “sheep’s tail” refers to the elongated and curved shape of its grape clusters. Also known as “the throne successor’s wine”, people consider it to be one of the noblest Hungarian whites.
Fekete Pince Somlói Juhfark 2012
Being from 2012, the Juhfark I managed to get would have been one of Béla Fekete’s last vintages. Hand harvested (as frankly all grapes must be on the steep hill), Fekete left the skins in contact with the juice for two to four hours before transferring it to 1000 liter Hungarian oak casks. There the juice underwent spontaneous fermentation. The wine aged for a year in 1000 liter Hungarian oak barrels before a further 30 months reductive maturation in stainless steel tanks before bottling.
The resulting wine poured a deep, glowing golden color. Intense aromas of yellow fruits, apples, orange peel, and vanilla flowers. The palate was dry and muscular with a medium body and medium alcohol (13.4%) and zingy acidity. A crystalline edge of minerality offset complex and savory flavors of bitters, herbs, dill, almonds, and blood orange oil.
A truly special wine this; I do not have the talent to truly capture the experience in words. But I’m thankful for the experience.