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Hungarian Wines Tour Day 2: Szekszárd & Lajvér Borbirtok

 

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We left Tornai after our tasting to continue our Hungarian wines tour with Hungarianwines.eu in a different region: Szekszárd. But first, another three hour drive! There was lots of driving on this trip. I was pretty happy to not have to be the one driving at least! I’m usually the one behind the wheel. Plus, all these long drives gave us time to get to know one another.

Szekszárd 

Szekszárd (sek-sard), was not entirely a new-to-me region in that I’d heard of it and had previously drunk some Szekszárdi wines. But I’d never been before this tip!

Located in southern Hungary, a stone’s throw from the Serbian border, Szekszárd is one of Hungary’s 31 PDOs. Mostly red wine country, Kékfrankos and Kadarka call this region home. It is also one of only two region allowed to make Bikavér (the other being Eger). Part of the Pannon wine region, rolling hills and valleys that offer varied microclimates are a hallmark of Szekszárd. A lot of climatic influences come to play here including Atlantic, Mediterranean, and continental influences that contribute to long summers and mild autumns. The result: one of the country’s longest growing seasons. Vineyards here are often terraced to combat erosion of some of the loess soils. But those aren’t the only soils at play here. Many vineyards are able to take advantage of terra rossa soils.

Lajvér Borbirtok

Spread out over 24 hectares, Lajvér Borbirtok created its vineyards to take advantage of Lajvér stream and the hill on which the winery sits. They cut 30 terraces into the hill around the winery in four main blocks, each with its own microclimate with temperature variations between the upper and lower terraces as well as differences in soil water content. The valley into which the terraces run forms a natural wind tunnel providing ventilation to the vines. Twelve different grapes grow here, including: Riesling, Olaszrizling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cserszegi Fűszeres, Kékfrankos, Kadarka, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah.

The ultramodern winery serves several function. First and foremost as a winery! But also as a visitor center, restaurant, and guest house. The winery itself is built into the hill under the visible part of the building. Here wine production uses gentle gravity flow technology. Barrel ageing also takes place here in 225, 300, and 500 liter Hungarian and American oak.

Lajvér Wine Tasting & Dinner

We were just in time to watch the last few moments of sunset from above Lajvér’s vineyards. Inside, after a warm greeting that included palinka, we sat down to feast. A lovely dinner here, accompanied by their wines of course!, included: curried sweet potato soup with venison meatballs, slowly roasted chicken breast with ham-potato gratin, and a decadent dessert of wine poached pears.

Lajvér Incognito, 2020

A blanc de noir made from 100% Kékfrankos, the Incognito (great name, no?!) was made via direct press, cold-fermented in a stainless steel, and finally passed through charcoal to remove any pinkness. The resulting wine was so pale as to resemble water! Passing wine through charcoal can often strip not just color but also aromas and flavors…that was not at all the case here.

Had I been blind-folded I would have sworn I had a rosé in my glass. Lightly perfumed with aromas of watermelon rind and cherries with a sprinkle of herby green. Fresh and bright on the palate with summer red fruits and white mulberries. Super quaffable and only 12% abv. And I wouldn’t have believed it had I not tried it, but it complimented the soup so well!

Lajvér Szekszárdi Rosé, 2020

The rosé is a Kékfrankos led blend (48%) with Zweigelt (21%), Syrah (16.5%), and Merlot (14.5%) finished with 12% abv.

To begin with, such a pretty color! Aromas of heavily ripe raspberries topping crème brûlée entice you to take a sip and discover a fresh and juicy palate. Bright acidity  and a streak of citrus accompany summer red berry flavors. This was fantastic with the ham potato gratin. It played off the smokiness of the ham so well.

Lajvér Signium, 2018

Next up, another Kékfrankos-forward blend, the red Signium. Almost half of the blend here (49%) is the regional specialty Kékfrankos with 31% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, aged for 10-12 months in barrel and another 12 in the bottle. 12.5% abv.

Initially a little tight in the nose, this one wants breathing room. But then. The powerful allure of dark roasted coffee beans. Breakfast wine anyone? Coffee and bitter chocolate make way for bramble fruits and forest spices. Brawny, velvet-gloved tannins rasped across the tongue to leave behind an indelible impression of ripe raspberry, brown spices, and roasted cacao beans. Hello, gorgeous.

Lajvér Szekszárdi Bikavér, 2017

We couldn’t leave Lajvér without trying their Bikavér! Szekszárd is one of only two regions in Hungary allowed to make this wine. According to the PDO regulations, Szekszárdi Bikavér must:

• contain a minimum of four varieties
• include a minimum of 45 % Kékfrankos and minimum 5 % Kadarka 
• only a maximum of 10% of Blauburger, Kékoportó, Menoire, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Zweigelt, Bíborkadarka, Alibernet, Turán, Tannat, Sagrantino, Malbec, and Mészikadar is allowed
• Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot cannot individually exceed 40%
• must be barrel-aged for at least one year

At Lajvér, the Bikavér includes: 60% Kékfrankos, 20% Kadarka, 15% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, is matured for 12 months in oak, and finished with 12.5% abv.

Rich baked blackberries, sweet spices, vanilla, and a touch of leather on the nose. Medium-bodied and bold with soft tannins wrapped around a nervy acidic core. Flavors echoed with nose with the jammy fruits and leather for a nice balance of fruity and earthy elements.

As it happens, my birthday took place during the tour. When the chef brought out dessert, someone had very sweetly put a candle in mine. So, after a fantastic day between Somló and Szekszárd, I also got to blow out candles and listen to a rousing rendition of Happy Birthday!