Introducing Taneanda Caladoc
Another new-ish winery to emerge in Turkey over the last few years is Taneanda. This Thrace-based winery has put out three vintages thus far, all based on Caladoc.
According to the winery’s website, founder Metin İlhan based the name on the local Thracian dialect meaning something along the lines of “there?” or “what’s there?”. An expression that would also be accompanied by pointing the index finger to indicate a specific place. He chose this as the winery’s name because he vines, which surround the winery, sit on a hilltop and are visible from afar.
Caladoc is not a grape we hear about a lot in Turkey. Probably it’s not really talked about in most places. A cross of Malbec and Grenache created in 1958 by Paul Truel, Caladoc leans more Malbec in style but was intended to be more like Grenache; but without the grape’s susceptibility to coulure. It’s not sanctioned for use in any of France’s AOCs but gets blended into some of the table wines. In addition to France (and of course Turkey) it grows in small amounts in Argentina, Portugal, and the US.
Previously, the only two wineries working with Caladoc were Chamlija and Vino Dessera. I heard a rumor that one of both of them actually go their grapes from İlhan but haven’t yet been able to determine the veracity if that.
Taneanda Caladoc, 2015
I never really liked Chamlija’s Caladoc so was hesitant to buy this, Taneanda’s first commercial vintage, when it first hit the shelves. But in the end I bowed to the need to try all the Turkish wine and bought one.
Darkly colored and already showing some browning. On the nose, dried fruits mixed with tack room smells of old leather and sandalwood, kissed with forest spice. The palate introduced flavors of date and red currants. High acidity with a fleshy texture and very present tannins.
Because I love a big red wine with a cheeseboard, that’s how I paired it!
The other two vintages out, 2018 and 2019, are under a different label called “Fenolya”. They’re performing better than the 2015 and based on having tried the 2019 in November at Sommelier’s Selection, I bought and am storing the ’19. That one is going to age well.