Oenops: Old Roots, New Rootes
My first introduction to Oenops was a few years ago at Athens’ Oenorama. My friend, Anna Maria of Unravelling Wine and Chania Wine Tours (who knows everyone in Greek wine) told me that, while not Cretan, Oenops makes the best Vidiano.
Nikos Karatzas founded Oenops Wines in 2015. While his winery sits in Drama in the eastern part of Macedonia, his grapes come from everywhere. Karatzas tours Greece looking for high-quality, native grapes like Xinomavro, Limniona, Malagousia, Assyrtiko, Roditis, and of course, Vidiano. Once he’s found a grower, he works almost like a micro-négociant creating partnerships with growers who share his ideals. In the winery, Karatzas strives to make low intervention wines. He uses a combination of stainless steel, oak, and even amphora to craft his wines.
For me, that Vidiano was love at first sip! Since then, not only have I had it a few times, but I’ve tracked down a number of Oneops’s other wines.
Oenops Kidonitsa, 2021
Oenops Kidonitsa, the rising star of the Peloponnese, comes from a single vineyard in the Macedonian area of Drama. Karatzas allows it to spontaneously ferment in amphora, where it then matures for six months on its fine lees before being bottled unfiltered.
Bright, lemony platinum it is aromatic and bursting out of the glass with almost muscat-like roses and orange blossom, tropical fruits, and tangerine peel. On the palate, more citrus peel along with pear and quince fruit flavors. Fresh and medium-bodied with lively acidity and moderate alcohol (12.8%).
A really lovely example of one of my favorite Greek grapes.
Oenops Limniona, 2019
Originally from Thessaly in northern Greece, Karatzas’s grapes come from vines ageing more than 30 years old. Some 60% of the grapes fermented spontaneously in open top amphora with the rest in 500 liter oak barrels. After blending, all the wine went into amphora to spend an additional 10 months ageing on its lees before being bottled unfiltered.
Bright, clear ruby in the glass with aromas of red fruits, forest berries, earth, flowers, and peppery twists. Texture like silk slid across the tongue carrying flavors of strawberry, fresh fig, black pepper, and roses. Really sooo silky! Mouthwatering acidity and flavors, a mere 12.5% abv, and lots and lots of linger.
If you’ve never had a Limniona, track one down! It’s becoming more widely planted and used in Greece and has crazy potential.
Oenops Xinomavro, 2019
Last but certainly not least was the PGI Macedonia Xinomavro I drank last winter in Athens. Made similarly to the Limniona with fermentation partially in open amphora and large barrels with 10 months on the lees.
Because this was one wine of several that evening and I can count on my friends to have glasses but not pitchers for decanting…this bad boy didn’t get the breathing time it should have. That did not stop it from being amazing though. If ‘dark’ were a smell…black cherries, dried rose petals, oregano, the freshly turned earth that picking the oregano disturbed, and cracks of pink peppercorn came hurtling from the glass. Smooth on the palate, showing a tamer side to Xinomavro’s often monster tannins. Medium-bodied with juicy acidity and 13% abv. Intense flavors of slow roasted, peppered strawberries and balsamic joined the floral-herbal notes from the nose…if the wine was this good straight from the bottle, what must properly airing it be like?
The best part, not only is Karatzas making outstanding wines, he’s pricing them so reasonably. I don’t think anything is over 20 Euros. It would be totally worth it to fly to Greece just for his wines, especially at those prices!