Our Wine 2015 Tsarapi Rkatsiteli
I first encountered Our Wine at the 2017 Zero Compromises wine festival in Tbilisi. The No Compromises festival features wines that are organic, biodynamic, and/or fall into that loosely defined “natural” category. As one of the first biodynamic producers in Georgia, it was no surprise to see Our Wine there.
Our Wine
Our Wine (initially called the Prince Makashvili Cellar) is a family run winery established in 2003 and led by winemaker Soliko Tsaishvili. Tsaishvili produces high quality natural wines using old Georgian viticulture and winemaking methods with the fermentation, maceration, and maturation taking place in qvevri (large clay amphora that are buried). As a result, his white wines have had a lot of skin contact and the final products remain unfined and unfiltered.
The vineyards, located in the Gurjaani region of Kakheti have two main locations: Akhoebi and Tsarapi. These plots sit in the Alazani River Gorge, on the northern slopes of the Gombori mountain ridge, 320-400 meters above sea level with an eastern exposition. The vineyards vary in age, from 15 to 45 years. Through his biodynamic practices, Tsaishvili controls the yields in these highly fertile soils so harvests do not exceed three tons per hectare. Each of his plots has its own composition of grapes but the majority is Rkatsiteli.
Rkatsiteli
Rkatsiteli (ri’-kah-tsi-tel-i) is the white vitis vinifera variety of Georgia. In fact, it accounts for more vines than any other variety in the country. Grapes remain small and grow in medium to large-sized bunches. They can reach high sugar levels while retaining acidity but are often harvested late to ensure the sugar levels.
Rkatsiteli has a largely fruity aroma profile featuring green apple, citrus, quince, tropical fruits, and dried fruits as well as nuts and aromas of Georgian spices (marigold, blue fenugreek, etc). Producers across Georgia use this grape for both traditional Kakhetian-style (qvevri) and European-style wines in styles that range from table wine to fortified wines.
Our Wine Tsarapi Rkatsiteli 2015 Tasting Notes:
Made in the traditional Kakhetian style with skin contact in buried qvevri, completely unfined or filtered. Subsequently this wine looks very cloudy and has a burnished amber color. Initial musty aromas of earth and wet leaves give way to yeast, dill, dried apricot, and dried apple peel in addition to quince jelly.
Medium-bodied with 13.2% abv and big tannins that feel reminiscent of deer antler fuzz. Bone dry and complex with a flavor journey that runs from fruity to spicy and mineral mid palate and ending in a long finish of wintergreen and forest.
In the end, the Our Wine Tsarapi Rkatsiteli was possibly the most interesting and elegant Georgian amber wines I’ve had. I can’t wait for my next trip to Georgia!