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Paşaeli Yapıncak: A Study in Terroir

 

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We don’t give Yapıncak a lot of love. Largely because it’s not especially common. Paşaeli, Sevilen, and Suvla are the only wineries I know that work with it.And yet, despite the fact that only three wineries use it, there are a lot of Yapıncak wines out there! Suvla makes three wines, Sevilen one, and Paşaeli…at least six. Not only does Paşaeli make so many wines with it, it’s the only winery putting an emphasis on the grape’s terroir.

Paşaeli sources Yapıncak from a couple different places in the Marmara region and for its three main still wines uses only single vineyard sourced grapes from Yayaköy and Şarköy. Grapes from these vineyards average around 30 years old and grow on gnarly only bush vines.

Paşaeli Yayaköy Yapıncak, 2020

For the Yayaköy Yapıncak, Paşaeli’s winemaker Işık Gülçubuk let the wine rest for about five months on the lees and blended wine partially aged in stainless steel tanks and partially in 300 liter French oak barrels. The resulting straw-gold colored wine yielded delicate aromas of yellow fruit and pear blossom. Yapıncak always produces wines with quite pretty aromas if not overly intense ones. 

The palate delivered a moderately more intense version of the aromas found on the nose with ripe pear and quince and a musky-floral finish. Round with a mid palate fatness, zesty acidity, and only 12.5% alcohol. 

For those who like a little heavier oaking on their whites, the winery also makes a Yayaköy Meşe Yapıncak.

Paşaeli Şarköy Yapıncak, 2021

If you’re one of my in Turkey readers, bad news for you, this wine isn’t really available here. Maybe a few restaurants have it. But if you’re one of my readers from abroad…you just might be able to find this one! Paşaeli mostly exports this particular wine, definitely to the US, possibly also Europe and Australia. 

Like the Yayaköy wine, this one spent a little bit of time ageing on the less in oak – but only three months in 225 liter barrels. Deep lemon boarding on gold on the glass with the somewhat surprising aroma of red apple! Lots of orchard blossom accompanied the apple along with a whiff of rock salt. In the mouth it was round and creamy with soft acidity and 13.5% ABV. The flavors? Apple, apple, apple! Around a core of apple wrapped highlights of mineral and rangpur lime with a dash of cream. 

Really the best of the Paşaeli Yapıncaks in my opinion.

In case you’re wondering why there are fish on the label…all of Paşaeli’s labels tell a story or carry a message. The fish featured on the Yapıncak labels is called lüfer which has been on the verge of extinction in Turkish waters due to massive over fishing. 

Interested in the other Yapıncak wines? See all my Yapıncak reviews here. 

*Cover photo of Paşaeli Şarköy Yapıncak vineyard courtesy of Paşaeli