Rare Greek Varieties with Monemvasia Winery
In 1997, the Tsimbidis family founded Monemvasia Winery in Monemvasia, Laconia, Peleponnese. Their goal: to reinvigorate little-known grapes lost in time. The Tsimdibis family took its time with its winery. They devoted their first years to the study of local varieties and experimenting making wines with them. It wasn’t until 2005 that they even began to plant. Now, they are the proud growers of a collection of rare varieties, uniquely encompassing Monemvasia*’s terroir over 30 hectares of organic vineyards.
*Monemvasia is the name of the winery, a municipality on the east coast of the Peleponnese, a town on a small island off the coast of the Peleponnese, AND a “grape”. But that latter is a longer story.
Monemvasia Winery Asproudi, 2018
I previously wrote about this Asproudi for a #WinePW even and you can read the whole post (including about the pairing!) here. Asproudi has an interesting story (which I also talk about that in that post!); but here I’m sticking to the short version.
The wine was produced under the PGI Peleponnese designation, fermented in stainless steel then spent five months ageing (also in steel) in the lees with periodic stirring. Brilliant lemon in the glass with an intense floral and fruity perfume. Big ripe, juicy, sweet Bartlett pear decorated with attar of lemon blossom. Intoxicating. A broad palate lifted by bright acidity, this wine tasted exactly like it smelled. Yum. I want another bottle.
Monemvasia Winery Kydonitsa, 2019
Slightly more wines are produced from Kydontisa, although the grape is still far from being mainstream. Also spelled Kidonitsa (transliterations are so annoying), the grape hails mainly from the southern part of the Peloponnese, especially Lanconia. According to Yiannis Karakasis MW, the grape’s name likely comes from the Greek work, ‘kidoni’, quince, an aroma these wines are well-known for.
Produced as a PGI Lakonia (or Laconia) wine, it fermented in stainless steel then spent five months ageing (also in steel) in the lees with periodic stirring. So far this seems to be a trend for the winery.
This wine showed a floral and somewhat exotic character with bergamot blossom and plumeria detail framing a core of quince and warm citrus flavors. A fresh, silky texture slipped across the cross with an exciting zing of mineral tingle. Medium-bodied with 13% abv, this was rich and perfumed without being overwhelming.
Absolutely delightful really. If you don’t know Kydonitsa yet, you should be looking for one!
Monemvasia Winery Monemvasia, 2018
As I mentioned, Monemvasia is the name of the winery, the place where the winery is located, and a grape. A grape many might be more familiar with as Malvasia (derived from Monemvasia). It is not actually one grape but a family of grapes whose origin is believed to be Greece.
Another PGI Laconia wine, this one breaks the five months on the lees trend of the previous two wines; ageing instead for six months.
It poured a golden yellow with a bouquet suggestive of nuts, spices, orchard, and pastry. I guess that extra month on the lees had an effect! While I wouldn’t say the flavors were “intense” they were solidly there and shared similarities to the aromas found in the nose. Yellow fruits, Golden Delicious apples and Santa Maria pears followed by raw hazelnuts, a touch of flaky pastry, and a lingering sense of orchard blossom all wrapped up in a streak of electric acidity.
I will certainly by on the lookout for more wines from Monemvasia on my next trip to Athens!