Yarrh Wines Sangiovese
The rarity of my posting about Australian wines the rarity of drinking them. Not necessarily by choice, but by lack of availability. Luckily for me, my good friend Roy, who splits his time between Istanbul and Melbourne, brought me a couple bottles on one of his last visits! I’d selected three bottles but he surprised me with three more that he’d picked out himself. One of those, Yarrh Wines Sangiovese, is not something I’d ever have selected for myself.
I don’t love Sangiovese. The magnificence of Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano aside, it’s a grape that on the surface I should like, but rarely ever do. So I am very glad that Roy picked out this one, I’d have missed out on a really great wine if he hadn’t!
Yarrh Wines
Established in 1997 by Fiona Wholohan and Neil McGregor, Yarrh Wines sits in the heart of the Canberra District in southeastern Australia. Their vineyards overlook the Yass River Valley making the winery’s name, Yarrh, which means “running water” wholly appropriate. McGregor, who oversees the farming side of the winery, ensures sustainable practices such as composting, mulching, and limiting the use of artificial inputs in the vineyards. He says: “Great wines start in the vineyard, and healthy ferments begin with healthy soils, vines and fruit. If you can balance the need to harvest a quality crop with the need to maintain a healthy ecosystem on your farm, I think the job is done.”
Similarly, winemaker Fiona Wholohan believes in letting grapes speak for themselves to allow them to express their vintage, their location, their variety. She says: “I see wine as a pinnacle of civilisation, and a fundamental part of life. What a privilege to be a winemaker.”
Yarrh Wines makes a variety of red, rosé, and white wines, working with varieties like Shiraz, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Riesling, and Sauvingon Blanc.
Yarrh Wines Sangiovese, 2021
Yarrh Wines’ Sangiovese grows in clay loam over shale on east-facing slopes. The winery utilizes four different clones which ripen slowly in Canberra Canberra District’s long, cool growing season. In the winery, the individual clones ferment with native yeasts in open vats including 15% whole bunches. Wines (again as individual clone batches) age in French and Hungarian oak for 10 months before blending and bottling.
A juicy wine showing a savory character with garden strawberries, red cherries, and black tea leaves framing a core of spice. Vibrant acidity and dusty tannins contributed to the wine’s medium body and carried the savory-fruity flavors to a solid medium finish.
I drank this over a couple days and enjoyed the deepening savory-earthiness as it opened more and more.