Suvla Pét-Nats: Semi-Sparkling but Full-Flavored

 

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Two Suvla pét-nats (so far – dare we hope for more?) made with Yapıncak and Emir have joined the ranks of Turkish pét-nats. They aren’t new, I’m just overdue in writing about them. Now that I’m finally getting around to it, I can honestly say that I’m a little in love! 

I’d heard rumors about the Suvla Kınalı Yapıncak pét-nat and then got to try it at a tasting a while ago, but hadn’t gone in search of it, largely because I was afraid of what the price would be. A legit fear these days. BUT!!

As of June (so it may have gone up with the July ÖTV increase) they were 870 TL!! 870 TL!!! Nothing this good is that inexpensive anymore. 

I’ve only ever seen this at actual Suvla stores, which (for Istanbul) means Cihangir, Kanyon, and Caddebostan. Suvla’s not great about shipping direct either but, for those not close to any of these, it would be worth asking at the shops. 

Turkish Pét-Nat

Yes, Turkey makes pét-nat!

Paşaeli first introduced pét-nat to the Turkish market with its 2020 Sıdalan and Yapıncak pét-nats. Within the next few years, the winery also debuted two Çal Karası pét-nats under its Naif label, and a limited edition Karasakız pét-nat. During those years, several other wineries jumped on the bandwagon with Arcadia’s release of a Sauvignon Gris pét-nat, as well as wines from Akberg, Yaban Kolektiv, and Suvla. 

What Is Pét-Nat?

Affectionately called, pét-nat, this style of sparkling wine is more properly known by its full and difficult to pronounce correctly French name: pétillant natural. Whereas the Champagne method is often referred to (at least outside of Champagne) as the “traditional method”, pét-nat is made via the ancestral method, indicating it is likely the oldest sparkling wine method. Unlike both traditional and tank sparkling wines, the ancestral method has only one fermentation. Not two. Just the one. Before the first fermentation finishes, the wine is bottled and closed with a crown cap. It then finishes fermenting in the closed bottle, resulting in the capturing of CO2.

This method leads to a few differences in the wines:

• The final product is less predictable. It may ferment fully dry, it might be off-dry. Who knows! Perhaps that’s half the fun?
• Usually wines are semi-sparkling leading to a softer fizz.
• Wines often have a lower final alcohol by volume (ABV) than do those made via the traditional or tank methods.
• In order to preserve the more ‘rustic’ style, they’re often unfiltered and may have some sediment and/or look cloudy.
• They’re not meant to be cellared. These are easy-drinking, fun, and delicious, but not ageable.

Suvla

In 2003 Pınar and Selim Ellialtı planted their first vines in Eceabat in on the historic Gallipoli Peninsula for their winery, Suvla, which they named after a bay by the same name in the north coast of the Aegean Sea. The vineyards they would eventually name for their newborn son, Bozok.

Bozokbağ vineyards totals 60 hectares of smaller parcels nestled in the gentle hills of the Gallipoli Peninsula between the North Aegean coast and the Sea of Marmara. Suvla cultivates a wide variety of both international grapes and native grapes like Narince, (Kınalı) Yapıncak, and Karasakız with other native grapes (Emir, Papazkarası, Öküzgözü,  Boğazkere, etc.) brought in from elsewhere.

In 2013 Suvla was earned a ‘Good Agriculture Practice-GAP’ certification for growing organic produce.

Suvla has long offered a large range of wines of different styles and quality levels. Personally, I think their quality has slipped over the past couple years as they seem to be putting too much effort into filling bottles for the lower price/quality category. However, on the occasion, they still come out with some gems, like these Suvla pét-nats. 

Yapıncak

Yapıncak is difficult to grow and prone to low yields even in good years. Its continued existence is down to the few winemakers, like Paşaeli and Suvla, that continue the struggle to cultivate it. Grown in the Marmara and Aegean regions around the Gallipoli Peninsula, Yapıncak grapes are tiny with very thin skins and produce semi-aromatic wines with mineral, citrus, golden apple, pear, quince, and floral characteristics that take on vanilla and creamy flavors with oak aging. 

Yapıncak is also known as Kınalı Yapıncak. “Kınalı” is Turkish for “hennaed” and refers to the copper-colored freckles the grape can develop. While the moniker may seem cute, dealing with grapes that have developed them is less so. These freckles add a bitterness to the skins so if grapes are pressed too aggressively the wine can take on a bitter flavor. Which is also part of why few wineries want to work with it.

Suvla Kınalı Yapıncak Pét-Nat, 2022

This pét-nat is not Suvla’s first rodeo making sparkling wine with Yapıncak. While I haven’t seen it on the shelf in ages (not even at Suvla stores), did make – at least for several years – a traditional method sparkling wine with Yapıncak.

Made in the brut style, the Suvla Kınalı Yapıncak pét-nat had bubbles that looked excited…but that kind of gave up on life after settling in the glass. I know pét-nat is semi-sparkling, but this was barely effervescent. Possibly because it’s already a rather old vintage? I shall throw myself on the sword of looking for a newer vintage to try!

Aromas as golden as the color flooded out of the glass in the form of yellow fruits like quince, apple, and pear decorated with white flower petals and pale honey. Barely effervescent but enough to give the wine a creamy texture on the palate where notes of orange peel joined the golden flavors from the nose. 

Emir

Native to the Central Anatolia, Emir is one of Turkey’s most distinct grapes. It flourishes in the volcanic soils, cold temperatures, and high elevation of Cappadocia. Some have tried planting the grape elsewhere and, while it will grow, it’s not Emir. 

Emir is used only for dry wines. The best examples are pale lemon-lime wines famous for the tart green apple and minerals in the nose. On the palate, this crisp and lively wine carries the flavors of apples, lime, and mineral; so much so that it can sometimes be described as being ‘salty’.

Emir (in my opinion) shows best as a varietal wine, but there are a few interesting blends out there as well. With its high acidity, it is particularly well-suited for naturally sparkling wine.

Suvla Emir Pét-Nat, 2023

While experiments have been made previously with both carbonized (Turasan) and traditional method (Kavaklidere and Vinolus) sparkling Emir, Akberg’s Emir-i Vaki was the first Emir pét-nat. I really like that one so was very happy to see Suvla’s on the shelf. 

Like the previous, the Suvla Emir pét-nat is a brut with lower alcohol (12% for the Emir, 12.5% for the Yapıncak). Slightly cloudy and hay-colored, this was had a bit more of a bubble to it. Of all Turkey’s pét-nats, Arcadia’s is by far the most effervescent. 

A mélange of soft, aromatic citrus like limquat, Buddha Hand, and sweet lime wrapped around white pear, decorated with flower petals and a hint of biscuit. The citrus faded to the back a little on the palate which gave a more pear cider kind of vibe. 

Very pretty, highly delightful. 

Don’t go without checking out my previous Suvla wine posts!