Wine Production in Turkish Thrace Continues to Expand with Prius Winery
Despite the massive expense and roadblocks thrown up by the current government, wine production in Turkey continues to expand. Each regions grows a little more every year – be it a new winery, a new grape, new wine offerings, or expanded vineyards. Over the last couple years, Thrace has seen a boom in most of those areas (excepting the new grapes), with Prius Winery becoming one of the region’s newest wineries. It came on the scene maybe two years ago. But, I only recently was able to get my hands on some of their wine.
Prius Winery
Does Prius Winery need this whole section with a big ‘heading 2’ sub-title? Normally, yes. Because this is where I would tell the winery’s story. However, finding information about this winery has proven frustrating and reminds me a lot of the bad old days when I first started trying to research Turkish wine.
With a website that is nothing more than a placeholder which has been ‘under construction’ for three or four years and an Instagram page with not a whole lot more information, I’ve not been able to glean much about it. Prius Winery was founded by Metin Harbalıoğlu. Its first Insta post is dated 2021, so, let’s go with that for a rough foundation year. It is, based on the few pictures it has posted, a beautiful-looking winery.
Located in the Lüleburgaz district of Kırklareli, Prius Winery either grows or buys in: 
- Native grapes: Narince, Papazkarası, Kalecik Karası
- International grapes: Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay
Its wines have not been easy to find. La Commune has a couple, so does Mensis Mahzen (overpriced there). If anyone knows where else in Istanbul might be selling these, I’d love a head’s up!
Their Instagram profile mentions the hashtag: #followtheladybug, my guess is that it’s connected to their rosé.
Prius Winery Marteniçka Martenitsa, 2023
Prius Winery’s rosé takes its name from the (largely) Balkan practice of wearing a martenitsa (marteniçka in Turkish). Traditionally, these are small ornaments – usually in the form of two dolls, one male, one female – made out of white and red yarn. They can also be something as simple as a bracelet made from twisted or braided yarn threads. A marteniçka is always gifted, never purchased for oneself. The recipient wears it, beginning on March 1 (Baba Marta Day) until he sees a stork, swallow, or blossoming tree (or until the end of March, whichever comes first). At that point, he removes the marteniçka, possibly tying to the blooming tree.
Some specific features of the ritual, especially tying the twisted white and red woolen threads, are a result of centuries-old tradition and suggest Thracian (paleo-Balkan) or possibly Hellenic or Roman origins.
Why this name for the wine? Well, despite giving a brief overview of the marteniçka tradition, the label does not say. Maybe because the traditional colors of the threads, red and white, together make pink? Maybe because spring, for many, heralds the beginning of rosé-drinking season? Possibly the family has a Bulgarian link; that’s certainly not uncommon for the area.
Your guess is as good as mine.
The wine in question is a blend of the Thracian Papazkarası with Kalecik Karası. Presumably with little to no skin contact and fermented in stainless steel. But why bother to include that information on the label? The label does feature a ladybug, so, we have a connection to the hashtag at least.
A brilliant pink with a hint of onion skin about it. A fruity wine with strawberry, cornelian cherry, and apricot notes, decorated with fresh mint and tea rose petals. Medium-bodied with 13.5% ABV, there was some nice acidity here and the wine showed some weight in the back palate. Possibly just a hint of residual sugar happening there?
Nicely made but not my wine. A little too close to the “tastes like summer” wines behind my general dislike of pink wine.
Prius Winery Papaskarası Kalecik Karası, 2023
I was also able to get a bottle of the Prius Winery Papaskarası Kalecik Karası blend. The winery does make a varietal Papaskarası, which I would love to try, if I could but find it. As with the rosé, I have no idea what the percentage of the blend is. People in America and Europe can keep their stupid nutritional information labels – fyi wine is not nutritious! – I would rather have winemaking information on the label. Prius does give us that 40% of the wine (the Papaskarası? the Kalecik Karası? both??) aged for eight months in French oak (new? multi use? large? small?).
My guess is new, 225 liter barrels going by the oak fumes that hung like a cloud over the glass. This one definitely wanted some time to breathe, being initially closed but for the oak perfume.
The evolution, both after giving it some breathing time and a couple days later, was remarkable. Lashings of black pepper followed by violets, rich earth, black olives, spoon sweets, plum, and notes of dark chocolate. Neither of these grapes are know for their tannins, but they were, nonetheless, present and accounted for in an otherwise silky and mouth filling palate. The acidity came off a little aggressive initially. All those flavors from the nose, along with additional helpings of plum and blackberry, slid into a decently long finish of cacao nib and toast.
Much more my personal speed than the rosé.
While this is one of the newest wineries out of the region, there’s plenty more to discover and drink in Thrace!
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