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Tasheli Göküzüm Aküzüm: Two Rare Grapes, One Great Wine

 

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Located in the Çömelek village in the Mut district of Mersin along Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, Tasheli is a family-run winery that has had a long journey to get to where it is now. They began in 2005 as amateur winemakers but serious wine enthusiasts. Years of learning on their own and receiving guidance from other winemakers and experts have now paid off. With the help of Anatolian grape expert Umay Çeliker, Patkara became their star grape. But the winery does not neglect other regional, native grapes, like Göküzüm and Aküzüm.

Grown in the Taurus mountains where high elevation helps mitigate the heat of the Mediterranean region, Tashaeli’s Göküzüm vines are over 70s years and the Aküzüm vines only a little younger, ranging from 40 to 70 years old. These two grapes we know sadly little about still. Other than they taste good, that is! Ak is an old Turkish word for ‘white’ or ‘pale’. It has a thin skin and when made as a varietal wine (which Selefkia does), makes a pale-colored wine. Gök means ‘sky’. This grape got its name from the local method of hanging grapes in the rafters of homes to raisin without sun exposure.

Both grapes have been around for quite some time but it’s only in recent years that winemaking with them has been revitalized. Thanks largely to Mersin-based wineries like Tasheli and Selefkia.

Tasheli Göküzüm Aküzüm, 2021

This is a new release this year from Tasheli. I first tried it at the Gustobar Challenging Master Class in May and recently fell even more in love with it after getting a bottle from Santé Wine & More. I have a feeling I will feature it very soon in a tasting!

Göküzüm leads the blend here with 90%, supported by 10% Aküzüm. It poured a tarnished gold/pale salmon color releasing a surprisingly aromatic bouquet. Guava, ripe pear, pear blossom, and linden flowers carried on a rather voluptuous body. Juicy and mouthwatering acidity added a freshness and kept the broad mouthfeel from being too heavy as the wine slid into a lengthy, floral finish.

If you haven’t tried any wines made from these grapes yet, go out and find this one!